Jodhpurs
Jodhpurs is a word originating in India, like many words now commonly used in the English vernacular. Along with gymkhana, pyjamas, verandah, bungalow and many more. These words were used as colloquialisms by the British during the Raj era of India, borrowed from Hindi and Urdu.
The Blue City of Rajasthan
To understand where riding jodhpurs originated, we must first travel to itโs namesake, an ancient city in Northern India where a towering medieval fort stands on a sheer cliff over the old city.
Jodhpur is awash with buildings painted various shades of blue. From hazy pastels to soaring azure and ocean deep indigo. Jodhpur earned itโs moniker as the Blue City of Rajasthan. It is Rajasthanโs second largest city, after the Pink City of Jaipur.
There are many reasons given as to why Jodhpur was painted blue. From keeping mosquitoes away, to itโs cooling properties due to itโs reflection of the sun, which is especially important in Rajasthanโs scorching climate. In India, blue is a sacred colour with many Hindu deities depicted as having translucent blue emanating from their very being, such as Lord Shiva.
Once a princely state, Jodhpur was founded in 1459 by Rao Jodha, a Rajput leader of the fierce warrior clan, the Rathores. It was Rao Jodha who formed the kingdom of Marwar, where Marwari horses were originally bred. Jodhpur was historically the capital of the Kingdom of Marwar. We can therefore attribute the modern day area of Jodhpur for both the beautiful Marwari horse breed and for jodhpurs.
Polo and the development of Jodhpurs
Jodhpurs were originally designed for the ruling leaders of Jodhpur to play polo in. Pratap Singh, the son of the Maharaja (King) of Jodhpur, is claimed to have designed jodhpurs after the native Indian โChuridahโ, a form of trousers that have been worn in India for centuries. Wide at the hip, then funnelling down at the knee and tight at the calves. The design is excellent for hot climates and it allows for ventilation around the hip area. The style is excellent for allowing freedom of movement, something necessary when horse riding and playing polo. This was before the days of lycra and other stretch fabric that is used for riding breeches and riding tights today.
In 1897, Pratap Singh and his polo team made the voyage to England for the Queenโs Diamond Jubilee celebrations. With himself and his polo team attired in their jodhpurs, the team made quite an impression on British society and equestrian circles. Soon, London tailors were being commissioned to reproduce this style. Jodhpurs took off with equestrians and polo players across the world, including Queen Elizabeth II.
Jodhpurs as formal wear in India
Jodhpurs made the transition from purely polo and equestrian wear to being worn for formal functions by Indiaโs leading elite. A more refined fabric was used as opposed to the thick cotton for the riding jodhpurs. A pair of fine white jodhpurs and a navy blue traditional Nehru jacket are often the formal wear of choice with Indian men even today.
Fashion and Jodhpurs
Jodhpurs made an entrance into the world when women mainly still rode side saddle in voluminous skirts. As the times developed, so did their riding style and dress. A seminal moment was in the 1920โs when Coco Chanel rode in jodhpurs. Apparently she had seen a groom wearing them. From then, the style moved from the equestrian domain to a wider fashion circle. To quote Coco Chanel, โI gave women a sense of freedom.โ
Riding in Jodhpurs
I had my first pair of traditional jodhpurs tailor made whilst riding in Rajasthan. Until then, I had been riding in super skin tight riding breeches and riding tights. A lot of times, I had actually been riding in my Lulu Lemon yoga leggings as well!
I thought it would take a bit of time to get used to how baggy they are around the hips. I asked the tailor to specifically make them more streamlined at the thigh and not the puffy look associated with jodhpurs. I like a really high, nipped in waist look, so I asked him to make them longer at the torso as well so I could wear them high, and not at the hips.
I love the room they give around the seat whilst riding and the movement they offer. Plus, when riding in conservative rural India I feel more comfortable wearing traditional jodhpurs than tight riding breeches or leggings. I now ride on most of the trails in Rajasthan in my jodhpurs like the Desert Ride to Alsisar.
