The first horse back safari out of Rajasthanโs historical Jaisalmer. A frontier land where a honey-hued fort rises up out of the vast desert.
Riding Marwari horses on this unique horse riding holiday. The very first horseback safari out of Jaislamer.
The Jaisalmer Marwari Trail
A horse riding holiday on Marwari horses in Rajasthan. The Jaislamer Marwari Trail is a two week endurance ride from Rajasthanโs westernmost city, Jaisalmer, all the way back to the Marwariโs home at Dundlod. The full ride is almost 360 miles across the Thar Desert. Riders can join for the first or second half, or the whole thing. It’s a once in a lifetime horse riding experience on Marwari horses.
On this occasion, we were joined by the highly talents professional photographer Pam Langrish who covered the ride for various international equestrian magazines. You can read Pam’s experience of the horse riding holiday in Jaisalmer here.
Jaisalmer
Jaisalmer is one of Rajasthanโs most iconic cities, home to the ancient Jaisalmer Fort built on honey coloured sandstone in 1156, earning it the moniker โThe Golden City”.
Due to Jaisalmerโs remote location in the very far west of Rajasthan, right on the boarder with Pakistan, some travellers do not venture this far. If you do then youโll be richly rewarded, for Jaisalmer is unlike any other part of Rajasthan I have been to.
Mapping out the route
Before the ride, I had gone to Jaisalmer to map out the initial route by car. This was in May, which I soon discovered is considered the peak of the hot season. Temperatures were reaching 50 degrees celsius. The wind actually hurt because it was so hot. The expedition ride didnโt set off until August, which offered more bearable weather because the monsoon brought relief and lower temperatures. I would say that September onwards is really the best time to consider visiting Jaisalmer.
I had dreamt of visiting Jaisalmer for years, and back in May when I had climbed up the entrance into the walled city at dusk, and then climbed further up some perilously vertical stone steps of a cafe to see the view from the top, I felt such a sense of achievement. I was so happy for having made it to this remarkable and historical place, even though it was hotter than the surface of the sunโฆand that was at night.
Glorious Jaisalmer Hotel
We stayed at the Rang Mahal hotel both times, and each time I loved the experience. The hotel is located on the Sam Road, which is slightly out from the main town, meaning itโs quiet and peaceful. In particular, sitting in the lovely garden with a gin and tonic after a satisfying midnight dip in the pool. They were kind enough to ignore the fact that I was in the pool after itโs closing hour which is 10pm, and that I was in my underwear (I had forgotten to pack swimmers)!
A horse riding holiday through the Thar Desert
The day the ride commenced we met professional equine and canine photographer, Pam Langrish who had flown in the day before from the UK to join and cover the ride for various international equestrian magazines. You can read about Pamโs experience on the ride here.
We left the Rang Mahal and headed to the horses who were camped just outside of the city of Jaisalmer in a peaceful farming area and began the ride.
The Start of the Horseback Safari
The first day was spent riding through vast stretches of the Thar desert interspersed with small villages. Our arrival usually roused a flock of excited children. This is one of the best parts of the rides, to see the look of wonder on childrenโs faces and stop to answer the many questions, one of which is always โwhere are you from?โ
As this was the first expedition ride out of this part of Rajasthan, the locals were not used to seeing tourists on horseback. Some inquisitive children surround Sunayana, Dundlod Safariโs Head of Logistics, early one morning. As it was still so hot, the beds were moved outside to catch the night breezes and we slept under the stars in the open Thar Desert.
Mostly in the early mornings and evenings we would have visitors from the local villages drift over to the camps. In addition to the young children, the local Chieftains would come to speak with Bonnie to suss out what this bunch of travellers on horses were up to riding through the desert and camping out. Needless to say itโs not a common sight!
The second day we weaved our way through more of the Rajasthani countryside, through small native โdhaniโsโ, or hamlets, where children run out to wave and unleash a torrent of excitable โgood morningsโ and โgood afternoonsโ.
Pokhran Fort
The third day we rode all the way to the historical Pokhran Fort. Built in the 14th century, itโs name means the โpalace of the five miragesโ. To find such a glorious and historical palace hotel with a lovely pool in the midst of the rugged desert was almost a mirage in itself.
Run by the royal family of Pokhran, the fort is authentic and retains all the character and charm of a centuries old royal fort. Dedicated to the Hindu goddess Durga, the goddess of war, whose name literally translates as โimpassableโ which is quite apt for a Rajput fort with all of itโs parapets and fortress walls.
After swimming in Fort Pokhrans marble pool, we created a makeshift poolside bar from which to enjoy gin and tonics in the balmy Rajasthani evening.
An ancient pilgrim route
Our horse riding holiday coincided with the festival of Ramdevra. Ramdev Pir was a 14th century Rajput ruler in Rajasthan who devoted his life to helping and uplifting those in need from all communities. He is worshipped as a deity during ‘Vedwa Punam’ which occurs in August and September. Our Jaisalmer ride was in the midst of Ramdev pilgrims flocking to his birthplace, which was Pokhran itself. The pilgrims carried flags depicting Ramdevra on a grey horse.
It was an amazing experience to ride through the pilgrims. They kept spirits high by blasting loud Hindi pop music from huge DJ sets as they went. We encountered a large group of pilgrims during the day on the outskirts of Pokhran. Mahima, the young horse who I was riding, had never encountered one of these extremely loud DJ sets before. I held on, we reassured each other, and somehow made it past with the support of Pam Langrish and her brave little Marwari, Sukhi nearby.
From Pokhran we rode onwards and eastwards, continuing on our way towards Dundlod. After riding through more desert, and enjoying a day of fabulous rolling sand dunes, we camped that night under the stars.
Reggie’s Camel Camp – a Horse Riding Holiday Finale
The next day after a long day in the saddle, we arrived at what is hands down one of the most magical places in Rajasthan in my eyes, Reggieโs Camel Camp in Osian.
If I could put all of my favourite things about Rajasthan into one location, then Reggieโs is the most perfect place. Riding into Reggie’s is one of my most memorable experiences on a horse riding holiday.
We arrived at the long, sweeping grass entrance, which in the season acts as the camel race track. We entered through the archway where our own tents were set up in front of Reggieโs main building. As our ride was still early, ahead of the tourist season, Reggieโs camps werenโt yet set up. We had the place entirely to ourselves, along with his two beautiful young dogs who looked like they were German shepherd crosses.
Reggieโs has a spectacular pool at the top of a hill with a panoramic view over the desert below. The bar is like something reminiscent of โOut of Africaโ with a thatched building and historical photos of Reggieโs regal ancestors, and a very well stocked bar.
A horse riding vacation to remember
This was the last night of what had been the ride of a lifetime. As the route from Reggieโs back to Dundlod is one that Bonnie Dundlod has done before, there was no need for our expedition ride to battle the heat and sweat anymore. The new route from Jaisalmer had been pioneered, and is now included in Dundlod Safariโs riding packages.
Itโs a wonderful experience, riding from such a distant and exotic part of Rajasthan back to the Dundlod Marwariโs home.
All the photos (apart from the ones I took in May of the view at Jaisalmer Fort) were taken by Pam Langrish, professional photographer who was on the ride. You can view her and her husband Bobโs work here and you can read about Pamโs experience on the Jaisalmer Marwari Trail here.
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