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Horse Riding Holiday / Horseback Safari / Marwari Horse / Pushkar Fair

Who Rides in India – Debbie Pengelly

In the Who Rides in India section, we hear from riders who have journeyed to India to ride the native breeds. 

Debbie rode with Dundlod Safariโ€™s to Pushkar Fair. This was a six day horse ride from Dundlod Fort to this extraordinary annual fair in Rajasthan.ย 

Debbie with Surya

Describe your riding background, Debbie

Iโ€™ve ridden since aged about four. I started on beach ponies on the UK south coast where we went every summer to our caravan. I would beg people for money for a ride, it was four old pence, and those days children seemed a lot freer, so I spent most of my days there. 

I had formal lessons from age eight, at a local stable where the instructor had only two ponies and she would ride her bicycle alongside us, even using a lead rope, whilst we rode on the wide verges you get in Leicestershire where I grew up. 

In my early teens, I was then able to ride privately on a friendโ€™s fatherโ€™s hunter and she rode her own horse. We explored local bridleways and sometimes met up with others including a very eccentric man, Max Alltoft, who made his money by inventing โ€˜Good boyโ€™ dog chocolates. He had a beautiful horse stabled locally which he let me ride. 

I didnโ€™t have my own horse until in my mid twenties. He was a challenge, usually very kind, but would suddenly explode and buck you off. Now looking back it may have been a back issue but at that time we were not so well advanced in understanding back issues. I was advised to get help from a young man, Eric Winter. In the end Eric suggested I sell the horse and he helped me buy an Anglo-Arab, an intelligent and fun horse. Eric has gone on with his equine career and is now the course builder for the Badminton three day event, so I had good help. 

I moved to Australia for a while and rode the stock ponies there. Returning to the UK, I was introduced to the HAC Saddle club and through them the HAC light Cavalry stables in Windsor, where I have ridden for many years, also being lucky enough to have lessons with the Kingโ€™s Troop arranged via the club. The MOD has now stopped civilians having lessons on โ€˜MODโ€™ property! (i.e. the horses).  

I have also hunted with the Royal Artillery on Salisbury plain, and taken part in various riding events , but all on hirelings. I have now taken a part share in a horse so I can ride more often. 

Why did you choose to ride in India?

I had never been to India, and I wasnโ€™t sure I wanted to go as I had heard that it was busy, loud, chaotic, with lots of poverty, but at the same time that it was so different and many people love it.  Friends from the HAC saddle club went on a ride organised by Bonnie, and they also stayed at Dundlod Fort and loved the trip. The holiday I choose included sightseeing in Delhi, Jaipur, and the Agra Fort, which was a real eye opener and now I hope to return to India to see more and ride there again. 

female rider on marwari horse on a horse riding safari on a sandy track with children in the background
Debbie with Koyal, an endurance Marwari mare

How was your experience riding the Marwari horse on a horse riding safari?

I really like the Marwari horse. They reminded me of an Arab horse but calmer. I understand they are a much older breed than even the Arab. They are a lovely elegant horse, narrow like an Arab, and strong too. Bonnie told us about some of the long distance riding that his horses participate in. The horse I rode won a 120 kilometre national endurance ride in one day. 

They are forward going so you donโ€™t need a lot of leg, but you can relax whilst riding them. 

How would you describe riding in rural Rajasthan with Dundlod on a horse riding safari?

Enchanting and very special. 

On the rides we could see the jeep with its flags trailing us but never in the way or too close so that it felt intrusive. Stops for water, lovely long lunch breaks set up by the back up team, hot food, cold drinks and a relaxed experience with never the feeling of being rushed. 

We were all really well looked after, and felt part of the whole set up, with Bonnie who is a very gracious host with a great back up team. 

DEBBIE PENGELLY

Some fast riding as well, which is not often the case on a horse riding safari and horse riding holidays. The horses are responsive to aids and the horse I rode had a good mouth.ย 

Evenings are in wonderful locations, many of them old forts and so the rides incorporated history as well. We were always treated with courtesy and truly as โ€˜guestsโ€™. It was amazing to ride through villages and people come out and seem to overjoyed to see us. 

One of our stops was a cousin of Bonnieโ€™s who bred Marwariโ€™s and we were treated to seeing some of his beautiful horses whilst drinking Masala Chai. 

On another occasion we were invited as guests to celebrate the 12th birthday of a young man of the family at Danta Fort. 

Also there were the surprises, such as aย group of local ladiesย visiting us one morning at camp. They were smiling and very gracious, now with smartย phones they take as many pictures of us as we do them. Another time we had a visit from theย snake charmer.ย You may also see someย beautiful birds such as the Indian blue jay, humming birds and bee eaters.

What sets an equestrian holiday on Marwari’s in India apart from other destinations?

India itself is such an unique place, and the horses are free in the way they carry you. It is difficult to describe but they move freely and do not chaff or fidget, and know their work but still go forwards with a freedom of movement you do not always get with some of the other breeds. Although many are smaller than a typical UK horse, they do not feel small. 

What advice would you give to a rider who is keen to travel to India to ride the Marwari horses on a horse riding safari?

Just go, and take a saddle seat for the hard saddles! Wear long sleeves to avoid the thorns in the trees. 

And find somewhere in the UK that sells Masala Chai tea (Sainsbury do teabags! Not as great as Dundlod but okay) for when you return home! 

Debbie’s group Riding into Danta Fort